In addition to studying
the following notes and quizzes, read the chapters
and
your class notes. THE TABLE ON PAGE 30 OF YOUR TEXTBOOK
IS
VERY IMPORTANT. For every exam, you will be expected to know the
sub-classifications
for the fibers. Natural - natural cellulosic
and natural protein
Manufactured
- regenerated, synthetic, and inorganic
========================
Textbook:
Tortora, P. & Collier, B. (2001). Understanding Textiles.
Prentice-Hall.
Basic Swatch
Kit. Hatch, K. Textile Fabric Consultants
American Dyestuff Reporter (now is Textile Chemist and Colorist and American
Dyestuff Reporter)
American Textile Reporter
America's Textiles
Canadian Textile Journal
Colourage
Contract Design
Clothing and Textile Research Journal
Daily News Record
Historic Textiles
Industrial Fabric Products Review
Interior Design
Interiors
Journal of Consumer Studies and Home Economics
Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management
Journal of the Textile Institute
Modern Textiles
Southern Textile News
Textile Chemist & Colorist
Textile Month
Textile Progress
Textile World
Trade Home Furnishings
Women's Wear Daily (WWD)
Applied Science and Technology Index
Encyclopedia of Textiles
Textile Technology Digest
World Textile Abstracts
==============================================
Internet
Resources
American Fiber Manufacturers
Association
Cotton Incorporated
National Cotton Council
American Association of Textile
Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
American Textile Manufacturers Institute
ASTM (American Society for Testing and
Materials)
British Standards Institution
British Textile Technology Group
Carpets and rugs
Consumer Product Safety Commission
Carpet and Rug Institute
Dupont Chemical Company
European Textile and Apparel Confederation
Fabric sources
Fibers and fabrics (good information)
Federal Trade Commission
Historic Textile Conservation and Preservation
Industrial Fabrics Association International
National Fire Protection Association
Society of Dyers and Colourists
The Textile Institute
Wool
Beginning of notes for exam 1
Textile Fibers - Chapter
2
Terminology:
Natural fibers - any fibers that
exist as such in the natural state
Common names - the names given to natural
fiber (such as cotton, flax, ramie, sisal, wool,
Silk, hemp
Manufactured fibers - fibers derived
from a process of manufacture from any substance which, at any point in
the
manufacturing process, is not a fiber.
Generic fiber names - names given by
the Federal Trade Commission for fibers of a particular chemical structure
(ex.
polyester, spandex).
In order for a new generic fiber to be named
“the fiber must have a chemical composition
‘radically different’ from other fibers or that chemical composition must
give
it significantly different physical properties;
the fiber must currently be, or soon be, in active commercial use; and
the
granting of the generic name must be of importance
to the consuming public ‘at large’ rather than to a small group of
knowledgeable professionals.”
Trademark names - the names given by
manufacturers for their versions of a particular fiber (ex. Dacron
polyester,
Lycra spandex, Anso nylon) . Trademark
names are always in capital letters.
Textile Labeling is enforced by the Federal Trade Commission.
Textile Fiber Product Identification Act (TFPIA) - effective March 1960
Conditions of TFPIA -
1. All textile products have a label
attaches that lists fibers from which they are made with the exception
of upholstery
stuffing, outer coverings of furniture, mattresses,
linings, interlinings, stiffenings or structural paddings; sewing and
handicraft threads, bandages an surgical dressing.
2. Generic fiber names must be listed
in the order in of percentage of fiber by weight. Fiber quantities of 5%
or less may be listed as "other" unless the fiber serves a specific purpose.
There is a tolerance
of 3% of the listed weight.
3. The name or registered trademark or registered number must appear on the label.
4. The country of origin must be listed
============================================================
Wool Products Labeling Act
Same requirements as the Textile Fiber Products
Identification Act AND:
2. Wools other than sheep's wool must
be labeled as such
3. Recycled wool must be identified
Merino sheep
=============================
NATURAL FIBERS
Cellulosic fibers - derived from a plant
source
Protein fibers - derived from an animal
source
Cellulosic
Protein
____________________________________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________________________________
Manufactured
Fibers American
Fiber Manufacturers Association
______________________________________
Fibers are formed from compounds made of Carbon (C),
Hydrogen (H), Oxygen (O) and other elements such as
Nitrogen (N) or sulfur (S).
The atoms from these elements combine to form
polymers. The internal structure of a fiber is make up of these
polymers formed into molecules.
IF the fiber has randomly arranged polymers
(molecules) it is amorphous. If the molecules are less random and
more
ordered, it is crystalline.
(SEE DIAGRAMS ON PAGES 36 AND 37 OF YOUR TEXTBOOK
Know the differences Properties of amorphous/crystalline polymer arrangement in fibers
Amorphous Crystalline
Weaker than crystalline
Strong
Hydrophilic (absorb water)
Hydrophobic (do not absorb)
Flexible
Less flexible, more rigid
Not resilient, wrinkle easily and do not recover
Resilient
=========================================================
Properties
of Fibers
The appropriateness of a fiber for yarns or
fabrics depends on the properties of the fibers.
They are generally divided according to physical
properties, chemical properties and environmental properties. No
single property determines the performance;
it is the sum of the properties that determines the usefulness of a fiber
for
the end use.
Staple fiber - a fiber of a definite length, usually natural
fibers but manufactured fibers can also be cut to staple lenght.
Filament fiber - a long, continuous fiber.
Physical Properties - can be observed under a microscope.
- Color - the natural color of most fibers ranges from very white to very black
-Shape - is measured in the cross section
and longitudinal form; shape affects the appearance,
hand, surface texture,
body, covering power, and luster.
- Luster - amount of light reflected by the fiber.
- Covering power - ability of a material to obscure an object
- Crimp - wavy, undulating physical structure
- Diameter or fineness - also known as denier and often referred to as dpf (denier per filament)
- Density/specific gravity - ratio of weight to unit of volume
- Strength - tensile force required to break a fiber
- Elongation - amount of stretching of a fiber under a tensile force
- Elastic Recovery - recovery after being stretched
- Resiliency - ability of a fiber to
spring back to its natural position after folding, creasing, or
other deformation.
- Flexibility - ability to be bent or folded
- Dimensional stability - stability when exposed to moisture or heat
- Abrasion resistance - resistance to damage by rubbing or friction of one material against another
Chemical Properties
- Hydrophilic - Absorbs moisture easily
- Hydrophobic - Does not absorb moisture easily
- Absorbency - ability of a fiber to absorb or take water into itself.
-Adsorbency - the ability of a fiber to retain moisture on its surface
-Wicking - ability of a fiber to transport moisture along its surface
-Hygroscopic - ability of a fiber to take up and retain moisture from the air
-Oleophilic - Has a strong affinity of oil-based substances
- Electrical conductivity - ability of a fiber to carry or transfer electrical charges.
- Effect of heat - way in which fibers
respond to application of heat
Thermoplastic fibers melt in the presence of heat
- Flammability (combustibility) - way in which fibers ignite and burn
- Chemical Reactivity/Resistance - behavior of materials when exposed to chemical substances.
Environmental Properties
- Sensitivity to Microorganisms and Insects
- Sensitivity to Environmental Conditions
========================================
Chapter 4 -
Cotton fibers in your manual:
22,24,30,32, 24,35,40,41,44,45,48,52,53,57,65,66,68,72,79,80,85,100,104,106,107,109,111,112,113,115,116,119,120
Natural fibers - fibers obtained from plant (cellulosic), animal (protein) or mineral sources
NATURAL CELLULOSIC
Seed - from seed of plant
Bast - from stem of plant
Leaf-
from leaf of plant
Properties of natural cellulosic fibers:
- Low elasticity and resilience
- Burns readily and completely
- Do not melt but will scorch
and burn
- Good resistance to most
chemicals
- Attacked by plant-loving
insects such as silverfish
- Attacked and destroyed
by mold and mildew
- Very hydrophilic
- Shrink in presence of
heat and moisture
Cotton is a seed cellulosic fiber. The
fibers form around the seed; the seed must be removed and fibers removed
from
the plant before it can be used. READ
THE INFORMATION ABOUT CULTIVATION AND PRODUCTION OF
THE FIBER
The quality of the fiber depends on the length, the growing conditions, the weather.
Most cotton grows as a white fiber; however
naturally
colored cottons (which have been around for thousands of years,
but grown in obscurity) are being grown in
locations around the world. The naturally colored cotton requires
no
chemical dyes. The colors tend to be
muted greens, browns, and reds. In recent years, cotton producers/researchers
have been genetically improving the naturally
colored cottons so they are better quality.
A unique property of cotton that differs from the
general properties of natural cellulosic fibers is that it is stronger
wet
than dry.
STUDY THE DIAGRAM AND PHOTOMICROGRAPH ON
PAGE 74, 75 OF YOUR TEXTBOOK.
Cotton Boll
Longitudinal View of Cotton Fiber
Other cellulosic fibers generally have the same properties as cotton.
Bast
Leaf
Flax (linen)
Sisal
Jute
Pina
Ramie
Henequen
Hemp
Kenaf
==============
Wool from sheep
Camel
Alpaca
Vicuna
Llama
Cashmere
Mohair
Qiviut
Cashgora
Properties of natural protein fibers(the
discussions of wool and silk will not usually list these
again)
Hydrophilic
Hygroscopic (especially wool)
Difficult to burn
Attacked by some insects such as carpet beetles
and moths
Damaged by some acids and alkalis (detergents,
perfumes, perspiration, etc.)
Good resilience
Damaged by continuous exposure to sunlight
WOOL
- the protein in wool is keratin.
The sheep's wool is the most common and plentiful.
Most wool comes from the Merino sheep.
The sheep are sheared in the spring and produce
an average of 8 pounds of wool/year. About 3-5
pounds is useable.
Products made from new or used wool are covered under the Wool
Products Labeling Act (1939).
In addition to the requirements of TFPIA,
there are the following:
- The term "wool" means it is a new wool,
never used before
- If any part is recycled, it must be stated
on the label
- Specialty fibers other than wool must be
identified
Wool that has been taken from animals that
have been slaughtered for meat is called pulled wool.
Pulled wool is less elastic
and lustrous because it has been treated to remove the skin.
Lambs wool comes from sheep 8
months old or younger.
Physical properties
The physical structure of wool includes scales on the outside
(see page 104) and cortical cells on the
inside of the fiber.. The cortex
consists
of long, spindle-shaped cells. The cortex is divided into two
distinct sections - paracortex and orthocortex.
These cortical cells respond differently to heat and
moisture and give wool the 3-dimensional crimp.
The wool polymer is helical (see your class notes).
Chemical Properties
Wool is hydrophilic and hygroscopic (absorbs readily but does not release
the moisture)..
Wool provides good thermal insulation due
to the dead air spaces in the scales and the crimp in the
fibers. The fibers cannot get close
to each other thus providing a large volume of dead air space.
Wool is one of the least flammable textile
fibers; it burn slowly and gives off a smoky flame; it often
self-extinguishes when removed from the flame.
When it burns, it smells like rotten eggs (due to
sulfur) - the same as when your hair burns.
Care
Wool shrinks due to felting shrinkage when
subjected to agitation . The scales entangle making the product (sweater,
socks, etc.) smaller.
Alakline substances usch as detergents cause degradation. Bleach decomposes the fibers.
Usually wool fabrics have a label recommending
dry cleaning. Washable wool is on the market. It
is usually blended with another fiber such
as polyester to avoid felting shrinkage or it has been
treated with a resin to cover the harsh edges
of the scales.
SPECIALTY WOOLS are similar to sheep's
wool in structure and properties. Most are more rare,
less durable, and have finer diameter than
sheep's wool.
========================================================
SILK
the protein in silk is fibroin. Silk fiber is produced
by the larva of certain insects used in
building webs and cocoons - the silkworm
the bombyx mori produces the most silk..
(See Page 119 in your textbook)
Silk is the only natural filament fiber.
The longest fibers are 1500-2000 feet long but usually are
more like 1000 feet.
Sericin is the gum surrounding the
silk when it is secreted.
Cultivated silk is obtained from the cocoons of silkworms under
controlled diet and environmental
conditions. The silkworm is killed insi>
Wild silk (Tussah) is obtained
from the cocoons of silkworms left unattended in their natural
habitat. The silkworm is allowed to
come out of the cocoon.
Raw silk is the silk that has
not had the sericin removed. Removing the sericin removes about 1/4
of the weight.
Duppioni silk results when two cultivated silkworms spin their cocoons together.
Weighting is a finish applied
to silk fabrics to add back some of the weight when the sericin is
removed. Large percentages of weighting
of metallic salts damage the silk fibers.
Today silk that is weighted more than 15%
for black or 10% for other colors must be labeled.
Silk is damaged by alkalis and acids, particularly
detergents and perfumes, perspiration, bleaches.
Sunlight causes fiber damage. Silk is
attacked by carpet beetles, but not moths.
Ultraviolet light causes breakdown of the
polymers and fiber degradation.
Care. - most silk is labeled "dry clean".
The absorption of water breaks the bonds in
the silk fiber and causes silk to lose approximately 20%
of its strength.
The new "washable silks"
result from a modification in the dye or a resin treatment to prevent
fiber degradation.
Fibers created
through technology either from natural materials or from chemicals.
MOST MANUFACTURED
FIBERS ARE THERMOPLASTIC
which means they soften and melt in the presence of heat and reconstitute
when
the temperature
is lowered below the glass transition temperature.
The production and use of manufactured fibers has increased in the last 20 years. As you can see in the graph below, the production of cellulosics has decresed while the production of manufactured fibers, particularly polyester, nylon, and olefin has increased.
Fibers are formed
from liquid polymers. The liquid polymers are extruded through a
spinneret
(see Figures 6.1, on
page 127; 6.2, 6.3 on page 128). A spinneret
has a design similar a shower head with holes. Each hole produces
one
fiber.
Spinneret
Fibers being extruded
The fibers become
solid after being extruded by contact with air currents (called melt
spinning) or solvents (dry
spinning or wet spinning).
Most fibers are round but can be made into various shapes by varying the
shape of the hole in the spinneret.
Fiber size.
Fibers size is designated as denier. This designates the
size or fineness.The denier is related to the end use of the fiber.
One of the recent technological advances in fibers has been the development
of microfibers. Microfibers have a denier less than
1. These fibers have been used for lightweight, soft fabrics.
The following diagram is a comparison of microfibers with flax, wool,
cotton, and silk.
Newly formed filaments have amorphous
and crystalline areas. The filaments are often subjected to drawing
to
orient them into a more crystalline
arrangement (refer to your notes from Chapter 3).
General properties of manufactured fibers: (exceptions will be noted in individual fiber discussions).
1. stronger
than natural fibers
2. resilient
3. thermoplastic
(have a melting point)
4. most
burn; when they burn, they melt & drip and produce a dark, toxic smoke;
the residue is a hard bead
5. resistant
to insects, mold, mildew
6. bacteria
will grow on the surface but not damage the fibers
7. low
specific gravity
8. resistant
to most acids and alkalis
9. hydrophobic
10. build up
static electric charges
11. dimensionally
stable
12. good
abrasion resistance
13. oleophilic
Newly formed filaments have amorphous and crystalline regions. These amorphous regions reduce the strength of the fibers; therefore, the fibers are often drawn to orient the polymers into a more crystalline arrangement (see page 134).
Bicomponent Fibers
Often more than one fiber is extruded through a spinneret. These
are called bicomponent fibers. These may be two completely different
generic polymers (such as nylon and polyester) or variations of the same
polymer (such as Nylon 6 and Nylon 6,6). they may be side-by-side
or sheath-core (see page 136).
Manufactured
(man-made) fibers are classified according to whether they have a cellulose
base or a petroleum (synthetic) base.
Factors that affect cost of natural and manufactured fibers:
Natural Manufactured
Dependent on natural elements
Dependent on people and machines
Quality can be variable
Quality can be very consistent
Often labor intensive to harvest and process
Not as labor intensive
Chapter 6: Manufactured Cellulosic Fibers
Manufactured cellulosic fibers
Rayon Rayon
Acetate Acetate
Lyocell Lyocell
Link to American Fiber Manufacturers Association (click on underline)
Manufactured (man-made) fibers are classified
according to whether they
have a cellulose
base or a synthetic base.
Manufactured cellulosic fibers
Manufactured cellulosic fibers have a cellulosic base but are regenerated cellulose - the cellulose is broken down and made into a solution which is extruded as a fiber
Properties of manufactured cellulosic fibers
1.
Low tenacity
2. Weaker when wet than when dry
3. Low abrasion resistance
4. Drycleaning often recommended
5. Burn readily, similar to cellulosic fibers
6. Poor dimensional stability
RAYON
- Wood pulp is the major source of cellulose for rayon;cotton linters can
also be used. Wood pulp or cotton linters are dissolved in chemicals
and remade as a fiber solution. The earliest process was called cupramonnium.
2. Viscose - most commonly used rayon
3. High-wet modulus -physical structure more similar to natural cellulosic
fibers. Have greater strength when
wet than viscose rayon.
4. High tenacity rayon - final spinning step is modified to increase
strength; zinc compound is added while fibers are being drawn. More
oriented and crystalline.
=Rayon is a cellulose
fiber regenerated from wood pulp; its first name was “artificial silk”
=Rayon is valued
for its excellent hand and drape
=Characteristics
of rayon are similar to cotton except that its wet strength is lower than
its dry strength
= High wet modulus
(HWM) rayon has superior properties to viscose rayon
=Rayon is used
extensively in apparel, home furnishings fabrics and nonwoven fabrics
ACETATE - first thermoplastic fiber
Acetate - Acetate is a cellulose fiber regenerated
from wood pulp or cotton linters
Fiber characteristics
are similar to rayon except that acetate is thermoplastic (will melt in
presence of
heat).
Acetate is a weak fiber; usually it should
not be laundered
Acetate fume fades - changes color in the
environment (not necessarily related to light)
LYOCELL
Lyocell - Lyocell
is a cellulose fiber regenerated from wood pulp
Characteristics are similar to cotton and superior to rayon
Tencel by Courtaulds (now Acordis)is the most common trademark name
Lenzing also makes Tencel by Lenzing
Tencel
Manufacturing process is much more environmentally friendly than for rayon;
solvent to dissolve wood pulp is non-toxic and almost completely recycled.
Manufactured synthetic fibers (the most unique property is in green
Properties of manufactured synthetic fibers:
1. Thermoplastic
(heat sensitive); have a melting point
2.
Resilient
3.
Strong
4.
Burn readily unless treated, melt and drip
5.
Resistant to insects, microorganisms
6.
Resistant to mild acids and alkalis
7.
Hydrophobic
8.
Develop static electricity
9.
Oleophilic
Fiber Size
The size of fibers is expressed as denier per filament (dpf). Depending on the end use, the denier can vary greatly. Denier is the weight in grams of 9000 meters of fiber.
Microfibers are fibers less than 1 dpf and are used in applications
where lightweight fabrics are needed. Microfibers can be packed very
tightly in yarns and, therefore, make compact fabrics that resist water,
wind, and soil.
Comparison of natural fibers with microfibers.
Most manufactured fibers for general use are from 3-9 dpf.
Fiber shape:
Most manufactured fibers are round after extruded. However,
cross-sections may be varied to give the fiber unique properties.
The following manufactured fibers have the
properties listed directly above for manufactured synthetic
fibers. The notes indicate unique properties
or information about each of the fibers.
Nylon (strong)
-As of 1997,
nylon has 61.6% of the US market share for carpet and rugs.
-Nylon is strong;
the crystalline structure and close hydrogen bonding in the fibers
provide strength.
-Nylon has excellent
compression resilience.
-Nylon has a
low specific gravity, making it possible to have a lightweight, sheer material.
-The sunlight resistance
of nylon is good but not excellent.
-For carpet applications,
the cross section of nylon is often modified to provide for soil-hiding,
reduce light reflection
Modified cross sections Trilobal
cross sections
Polyester(easy care)
-Polyester
claims approximately 42% of the U.S. apparel market and is used for home
furnishings
and industrial fabrics as well as consumer products such as sleeping bags.
In
1997, polyester
accounted for 5.9% of the U.S. carpet and rug industry.
-Easy care is
the claim to fame for polyester; most fabrics can be machine washed and
dried
- Polyester
is often blended with other fibers to offer its properties of resiliency,
easy
care,
strength, and
dimensional stability
-Polyester is
very oleophilic
-The aromatic
ring structure of polyester makes it hydrophobic (see notes taken in class)
-Polyester has
a higher specific gravity than nylon and provides less cover for the weight.
Major end uses include apparel, carpet, upholster
Olefin (low specific gravity, non-absorbent)
two types of olefin,
polypropylene and polyethylene.
-As of 1997,
olefin had 32.1% of the U.S. carpet and rug market
-Olefin is used
for carpet face as well as carpet backing.
-Olefin has
the lowest specific gravity of the fibers.
-Olefin has
a low melting point
-Olefin is non-absorbent
and usually solution dyed for color.
-Olefin has
wicking properties that make it comfortable for some apparel
Major end uses include carpet face and backing,
upholstery (usually sold under the trade name Herculon) and thermal
underwear
Acrylic(excellent
sunlight resistance)
- Acrylic has properties similar to wool including
the helical shape
-Acrylic has a much lower specific gravity
than wool; therefore, it is much lighter in weight than wool
-Acrylic can be laundered but should not be
dried in the dryer, it often gains in dimension
-Acrylic has excellent sunlight resistance
-Acrylic burns readily
Major end uses include apparel: outdoor materials
such as furniture coverings, canopies, tents, marine upholstery
Modacrylic
inherently flame
retardant;<>
Modacrylic has a low melting point
Rubber and Spandex (elasticity
and recovery)
Rubber and spandex are ELASTOMERIC fibers.
rubber can be natural or synthetic.
Natural rubber fibers are weak and have low melting
points; synthetic rubber was developed
in the 1930s and has better properties.
Spandex can be stretched up to 5 times its
length and return almost completely to its original
shape. Lycra by DuPont is a common
tradename. The spandex fiber is very amorphous in
the relaxed state; when stretched the amorphous
polymers straighten and bond with each
other thus preventing breaking under the
stress of being stretched. When the stress is
removed, the fiber returns to its original
internal
structure.
Spandex has good resistance to sunlight,
body oils, chlorine water, salt water
High Performance Fibers (click here for more information)
Aramids ( NomexHigh resistance to
heat and fire
(Kevlar)High
resistance to heat and fire; strong; do not melt
PBI - (does not burn in air)
Sulfar - excellent chemical and flame resistance
Begin notes for Exam 2.
Be able to identify diagrams of single yarns, ply yarns, fancy yarns, spun yarns, filament yarns.
Definition of Yarn - an assemblage of fibers that is laid or twisted together to form a continuous strand
Spinning - the process of converting fibers into yarns
History of Yarn Spinning
-Hand spinning
-Spinning wheel
-Mechanization
-1830 - ring spinning
-Open-end spinning 3 times
faster than ring spinning
-air-jet spinning 10 times
faster than ring spinning
Types of yarns.
1. filament
- made from long, continuous strands of fiber. May be monofilament
or multifilament.
Silk and manufactured fibers are originally in filament form unless
cut into staple lengths.
2. staple (spun)
yarn -made from short, staple fibers that must be held together by some
means
(usually twisting) in order to be formed into a long, continuous yarn.
Natural fibers except silk are staple
fibers; manufactured fibers and silk are usually filament but can
be cut into staple lengths.
Yarns Classified by Number of Parts
Single yarn - made from a group of
filaments or staple fibers twisted together; if untwisted, it will separate
into the
individual fibers
Ply yarn - two or more single yarns
are twisted together to make a single yarn; if untwisted, it will separate
into the single
yarns which will separate into individual
fibers
2-PLY AND 3-PLY YARNS
Cord yarn - two or more ply yarns are twisted together; if untwisted, it will separate into the plied yarns which will then separate into single yarns which will separate into individual fibers.
Yarns classified by similarity of parts
Simple yarns -yarns with uniform size and appearance; may be single, ply, or cord.
Novelty (fancy, complex) yarns -
yarns that have a decorative effect; not uniform in size and appearance
Novelty yarns will be discussed later
Core-spun yarns - yarns that have
a central core of one fiber around which is wrapped or twisted an exterior
layer of
another fiber
Yarn Twist
-Direction of twist: (diagram page 227 in
your textbook)
When fibers are
twisted to make a yarn, they are twisted to the right or left
This twisting is
called S or Z twist. Most yarns are made with a Z twist.
The direction of
twist does not usually affect the characteristics of the yarn or fabric.
- Amount of twist
The amount of twist
affects the characteristics and properties of a yarn including appearance,
behavior and
durability.
Generally, higher twist creates yarns that
are
stronger
more firm
smaller in diameter
smoother
resistant to snagging
and abrasion
resilient
good conductors
of heat
Generally, lower twist creates yarns that are
weaker
softer
larger in diameter
fuzzy
prone to snag and
abrade
crush easily
resistant to heat
transfer
Filament yarns often have little or no twist because they are continuous and strong; the fibers will not break or separatefrom the yarn as easily as spun (staple) yarns
SPUN (STAPLE) YARNS
Making staple fibers into yarns
Insertion of twist into yarns
Ring Spinning - produces a finer,
smoother yarn than the other types of spinning but is slower
Open-end spinning - produces a yarn
of even diameter, lower in strength, subject to abrasion, and do not recover
from
creasing easily.
Air-jet spinning - air jet used to wrap fibers around interior fibers.
Core-spinning - continuous filament core surrounded by twisted fibers or other yarns.
Yarn Size
Differences in yarns and thread
Thread is usually used for sewing together
parts of a garment or other textile product.
Yarns are used for fabric construction
(weaving, knitting, etc.)
Yarns are designated by standard sizes.
(table 15.1, page 229)
Direct Numbering System - the higher
the number, the bigger (coarse) the yarn
Tex - weight in grams of 1000 meters
of yarn
The ISO (International Organization for
Standardization) is encouraging all countries to use Tex as the designation
for
yarn size.
Denier- weight in grams of 9000 meters
of yarn
The higher the number, the bigger the yarn.
Indirect Numbering System - the higher
the number, the smaller (finer) the yarn.
Cotton - size is designated as the number
of 840-yard hanks of yarn in one pound.
For example, if it only takes 10 840-yard
hanks to make one pound, the yarn size must be bigger than if the yarn
size is
100. If 100, it would take 100 840-yd
hanks to make one pound. Therefore, the yarn would have to be small
in size to
be able to fit all 100 in that one pound.
FILAMENT YARNS
Filament yarns are made from long, continuous strands of fiber.
The processing of filament yarns is:
1. cleaning if necessary (only for
silk)
2. align fibers
3. twist
4. texturing (if done)
5. winding on spools
Filament yarns are smooth and slippery to
the touch. Often they are bulked or textured to give them more volume,
softness, covering power.
COMPLEX (FANCY, NOVELTY) YARNS (see diagrams , page 224)
=Complex yarns are made to create decorative
effects in the fabrics into which they are woven.
=Complex yarns are usually weaker than
simple yarns
=Complex yarns are usually woven into the
filling direction of the fabric
=Complex>yarns usually exhibit more snagging
and wear
Complex yarns usually have three
main parts:
1. core (ground) yarn
2. effect yarn
3. binder yarn
Fabrics
-
On diagrams (matching) you will
be asked to identify the warp, filling, and bias directions and the selvage.
You will be asked to identify
plain weave, plain basket, plain rib, twill (right and left-handed, steepness
of angle, warp-faced,filling-faced or even-faced), satin (warp-faced, filling-faced).
You should be able to give the
fabric count for a fabric in a diagram.
Terminology
Woven fabrics -constructed by interlacing
warp (vertical) and filling (horizontal) yarns at right
angles. See Figure (a) at top of
page 273.
Warp - yarns that run in the vertical direction of a woven fabric
parallel with the selvage
Filling (weft) - yarns that run in the horizontal direction of a
woven fabric
The warp yarns are usually stronger than the filling yarns; they are put on the loom first (warp beam) and the filling yarns are inserted over and under the warp yarns depending on the weaving pattern
Fabric count - total number of warp and filling yarns in a square
inch of fabric (example above would be 12; 6 warp and 6 filling.
High fabric counts are stronger, smoother,
less likely to shrink than low fabric counts.
Usually there are more warp yarns than
filling yarns.
The warp yarns are usually stronger, have
a higher tpi, and a higher count than the filling yarns.
Grain - the intersection of the warp and filling yarns at right angles
Selvage - finished edge of fabrics during weaving process
The BASIC WEAVES in the woven fabrics are plain, twill and satin.
Plain Weaves
Simplest of weaves and most common.
Warp and filling yarns are interlaced in a pattern of over
one and under one.
(Graphics made by Melinda Patrick, former
Ph.D student and Teaching Assistant in Department of Textiles
and Consumer Sciences)
Plain weaves are economical to manufacture
and produce a durable, smooth fabric. The face
and back of the plain weaves are usually
the same unless there is some type of coloration method.
Variations of the plain weave include the
rib and the basket.
Rib fabrics have a heavier filling or a
heavier warp than the yarn in the opposite direction.
(see diagrams on page 274).
If the rib is prominent, the fabric may
be subject to damage by abrasion, snagging.
The other variation of the plain weave is the basket weave (see
a and b, top of page 275).
The basket weave uses two or more warp
and/or two or more filling yarns side by side as one
yarn. The plain basket variation
can be a half basket where there are half as many yarns in
one direction as in the other or a regular
basket such as the photograph below.
4x4 basket weave
Depending on the structure, basket weaves may be more subject to
damage by abrasion, snagging, yarn
shifting than plain weaves.
Twill fabrics are fabrics in which the weave repeats on three
or more warp and filling yarns and diagonal lines
are produced on the face of the fabric.
Right-handed twill - diagonal lines go
from lower left corner to upper right corner
Left-handed twill - diagonal lines go from
lower right corner to upper left corner
THE DIRECTION OF THE TWILL DIAGONAL HAS
NO RELATION TO THE QUALITY OF THE
FABRIC.
/Right-handed
twills
Right-handed twill
If the direction of the twill reverses, it is a herringbone.
Refer to your class notes for diagram of twill diagonal.
Twill diagonal angles near 45o
are regular twills. Regular twills are usually even-sided (same or
near same
warp and filling yarns on face).
Twill angles that are more vertical are
called steep twills.
Steep twills are usually warp-faced which makes them more
durable than reclining twills.
Reclining twill diagonal angles are filling-faced and are usually
more subject to abrasion and other types of
wear because the filling yarns are usually
not as durable as the warp yarns. (see your notes on yarns).
Assuming that the yarns are durable (see
notes on yarns) twill fabrics can be even more durable than plain
weaves. Because there are fewer interlacings,
the yarns can be packed closer providing more durability and
cover.
Satin fabrics are known for aesthetics but
not for durability. Fewer interlacings often allow for the yarns
to
be packed close together, the long floats
are easily abraded and snagged.
Warp-faced satins (typically called satin)
have the floats in the warp direction.
Filling-faced satins (typically called
sateen) have the floats in the filling direction.
Warp-faced
satin
Filling-faced satin (usually called sateen)
Advantages of pile fabrics
-provide good thermal insulation (dead
air spaces between yarns above base fabric)
-good cover
-soft hand
-soft visual texture
Pile fabrics are made by incorporating either extra warp or extra filling yarns.
Warp-pile fabrics have an extra set of warp yarns that wrap around base filling yarns in the weaving process.
Velvet and terrycloth are two examples of warp pile fabrics.
Filling pile fabrics have an extra set of
filling yarns that wrap around the base warp yarns in the weaving
process. Velveteen and corduroy are
examples of filling pile fabrics. In corduroy the pile
is cut in wales.
Pile fabrics have a nap or pile sweep that causes the light to be
reflected differently depending on whether you are looking directly into
the pile or looking at the direction where the most light is reflected.
Leno Fabrics are fabrics in which warp yarns have been made to cross
one another, between fillings,
during leno weaving. The warp yarns
form a figure 8 around the filling yarns.
Leno fabrics are open structures; the warp
wrapping around the filling yarns help to stabilize the filling yarns
and reduces yarn slippage.
FABRICS WITH DESIGN WOVEN IN THE STRUCTURE
Refer to your notes for diagrams and more information.
Jacquard fabrics produced on a Jacquard
looom have a design woven in the fabric. The Jacquard
fabric has at least two of the basic weave
structures. Typically, different colored (or the same color) yarns
form an intricate design; some have flowers
and/or animals, some are like pictures, some tell stories.
The
Jacquard designs are usually larger than
dobby designs.
Dobby fabrics are fabrics are a variation of a Jacquard weave
with small woven-in designs. They
are often geometric but may be of other
designs.
Pique fabrics have soft raised surfaces
that are made by using stuffer yarns or a variation of the plain
weave.
Spot weave fabrics have a design woven in
using extra yarns at a particular spot and the figures are
connected on the back by yarns (usually
in the filling)/ These connecting yarns may be cut or uncut.
Double-weave fabrics have three or more
sets of yarns that make a fabric that is in
layers. Some layers can be separated,
some are woven together.
Fabrics/knittedKnitted
fabrics
Be able to identify on a diagram
the wales and courses.
Be able to identify on a diagram
the difference between a warp and weft knit.
Know how to count the gauge
and the stitch density on a diagram.
study the diagrams in your textbook.
Knit fabrics are composed of intermeshing
loops of yarn.
Terminology
stitch - each loop is called a stitch
course - a row of loops across the
width of the fabric (perpendicular to selvage)
wale - a column of loops along the
length of the fabric (parallel with selvage)
gauge - number of stitches per unit
length.
stitch density - number of stitches
per unit area (multiply number of courses by number of wales).
technical face - side where the
loops are pulled toward the viewer
technical back - side where the
loops are pulled away from the viewer
Comparison of knits and woven fabrics.
-Knit fabrics have higher elasticity than
woven fabrics
-Knit fabrics provide less cover than woven
fabrics because of spaces between loops; this depends on the
yarn structure and the stitch density (see
class notes)
-Knits fabrics are less dimensionally stable
(more likely to shrink) in heat and moisure
-Knit fabrics have better wrinkle resistance
and better wrinkle recovery
-Knits are more easily snagged than woven
fabrics.
Two types of knits:
Weft knits - loops run crosswise in the
fabric
Warp knits - loops run lengthwise in the
fabric
WEFT KNIT
Most common weft knits are jersey, rib,
purl.
Stitches used in weft knits (see diagrams
in textbook, page 345).
-Knit or plain stitch - the loop is pulled
to the front of the loop above it.
-Purl stitch - loop is pulled to the back
of the loop above it and to the front of the next loops
-Float stitch - connects two loops of the
same course that are not in adjacent wales (page 345).
Jersey - all loops are the same (knit stitches).
The appearance on technical face is wales and the appearance
on the technical back is courses (page
336)
Knit stitches
Front(top), Back (bottom)
Jersey knits tend to curl toward the technical face in the course direction.
Rib - loops (stitches) alternate from
the front to the back of the loop above in the vertical (wale) direction.
All of the loops in a single wale are the
same. Rib knits have a "vertical stripe" created by the loops being
on the face and then toward the back. Rib
fabrics are named (1x1, 2x2, etc) by the number of stitches that
are on the face and then on the back (figure
16.15, page 342).
Rib Knit
Purl - loops (stitches) alternate from the
front to the back in the course direction. All stitches in a single
course are the same, the next course is
the opposite.(see Figure 16.19 on page 344)
WARP KNITS
Yarns in warp knits are interlooped lengthwise
rather than across the fabric. Warp knits are resistant to
runs (ladddering). The most common
warp knit is TRICOT pronounced tree-co. (see diagrams on page 16.23)
Another type of warp knit is RASCHEL - which
gives a lace-like appearance. Elaborately patterned
surfaces can be achieved witht he Raschel
machine (page 350).
Chapter 17, Nonwovens (Fiberwebs) made from fibers.
Nonwovens are capturing a large share of the disposable market (diapers, surgical gowns, cleaning cloths (Swiffer, etc), Handi-wipes.
Nonwoven fabrics are usually "made from
extruded filaments or from fiber webs or batts
strengthened by bonding using various techniques;
these include adhesive bonding,
mechanical interlocking by needling or
fluid jet entanglement, thermal bonding, and stitch
bonding."
Nonwoven fabrics are made by bonding the
fibers either by heat, moisture and heat, an
adhesive, or a combination.
nonwoven fabrics are usually more stiff
than woven or knitted fabrics.Often they are used for
stabilization or for disposable products.
Dry-laid nonwovens -nonwovens containing
layers of fibers, each layer containing randomly
positioned or parallel fibers. Bonding
with an adhesive or heat is necessary.
Wet-laid nonwovens - paper-like nonwovens
containing a random array of layered fibers,
with the layering resulting from the deposition
of fibers from a water slurry.
Needlepunched nonwovens are characterized
by the entangled condition of fibers of which
they are composed, with the entnaglement
resulting from the application of heat, moisture
and agitation to a fibrous web.
Spunlaced nonwovens have fibers entangled by action of high-velocity water jets.
.
========================================================
Other Fabric Constructions
18
One component is a fiberweb,
yarns or preformed fabric; the other is a series of stitches that hold
it together
Embroidery (page 380, textbook)
Decorating fabrics by using
a base fabric and threads or other fabric pieces to form a design on surface
Lace
Individual yarns are joined
into a decorative pattern
May be hand or machine made
Quilted Fabric Page 119,
Composed of three layers
Top, middle (fill), bottom
Top and bottom may be the same
or reversible
Quilted Fabrics
Provide good thermal insulation
because inner layer traps air
Fill layer today is usually
made from polyester; traditionally made from cotton batting
Quilted Fabric
Layers are joined by quilting
(stitches either hand or machine-made)
OR by the ultrasonic method
using sound waves to generate heat
Some of the fibers must be thermoplastic
Flocked Fabric
Short fibers are adhered to
surface of fabric to give illusion of pile fabric
Can be attached by adhesive
May be attached electrostatically
(Page 392 in textbook)
Coated Fabric
Two or more layers – one is
a textile material (usually nonwoven or a knit structure) and the other(s)
is/are continuous polymer layer (such as vinyl, plastic film, etc.)
Often used for weather protection
(wind, rain, etc)
Laminated/Bonded Fabrics
Sometimes used as the same
Technical difference is:
Bonded: shell fabric is joined
to a backing fabric with adhesive, usually does not add to thickness
Laminated: May be same process
but often fabrics are joined by using heat properties of fibers to join
fabrics
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
ADDING
COLOR TO TEXTILE MATERIALS
Dyes - substances that add color to materials
by being absorbed
Pigments - substances that add color to
materials on the surface; are not absorbed
Dyeing - a colorant is uniformly distributed within or on the surface
of all fibers throughout a yarn or fabric
Printing - a colorant is applied to localized areas on fabric or
yarn surfaces; includes the print pattern and the process
Stages of dyeing textile materials
1. Fiber dyeing - color is added
in the fiber state
Solution
dyeing is adding color to the manufactured fiber in the solution stage
before it is extruded.
Solution
dyeing is very durable; the color is all way through
Stock dyeing
is adding color to loose fibers by immersing in a dyebath
FIBER DYEING IS AN EXPENSIVE TYPE OF DYEING.
The manufacturer is taking a chance on the fashions remianing the same
throughout the season or longer.
2. Yarn dyeing - color added in the
yarn stage
Yarn dyed products are usually the same on both sides such as with plaids
and stripes.
The yarns may be space-dyed - the yarn is immersed in different colors
along the length of the yarn.
3. Piece dyeing - Most solid color
fabrics are piece-dyed. The fabric is immersed in a dyebath and comes
out a solid
color front and back.
If a fabric
is a blend of fibers that do not take a similar type of dye, dyes are mixed
to create a dye that
will provide
a penetrate all fiber types and give a solid color. This is union
dyeing.
If a fabric
is a blend of fibers that do not take a similar type of dye and the desired
effect is to have a
fabric that
is more than one color, one dye type is used and the fabric is multi-colored.This
is cross dyeing.
PIECE DYEING
IS THE LEAST EXPENSIVE TYPE OF DYEING.
4. Product dyeing - the products (garments,
sheets, curtains, etc.) are immersed in a dyebath after the
product is
completely assembled, including trim, labels, seams, etc. Everything must
be compatible including trims, labels, thread, etc. Being able to
dye at this stage enables a company to be able to reduce inventory.
Colorfastness is the most common consumer complaint
Colorfastness is the ability of a textile material to retain its
color during use and care
Fading - color becomes lighter; cause could be age, light, pollutants,
chlorine, water, etc.
Bleeding - color depositing on another material
Migrating - color moviing from one part of the garment to another
Frosting - color loss due to abrasion
Crocking - transfer of color from one material to another by rubbing
Printing - a colorant is applied to localized areas on fabric or yarn surfaces; includes the print pattern and the process
Direct printing - the printed patter is put
directly onto the fabric
Examples of direct printing
include:
Application - colorant
is printed onto a white fabric
Duplex - a fabric is printed
on both sides; may be the same design or different
Overprint - a motif is printed
over a dyed fabric. The overprint motif does not show on the back
Blotch - both the background and the
motif are printed on the fabric; the back is usually white
Processses of direct printing
1. Roller printing - usually small
designs; designed is engraved into copper rollers. The dye is held
in the engraved portions and rolled over the fabric. There is a different
roller for each color. Only about 25% of the printed fabric is roller printed.
2. Screen printing - larger designs.
The dye is forced through openings in a screen onto the fabric. A
different screen is used for each color.
Resist printing - the colorant is resisted
in certain areas of the fabric by a substance such as a wax, string, etc.
The dye is not deposited where the resist
substance is on the fabric. Examples are batik, tie-dye
Discharge printing - the fabric is dyed a dark solid color and a discharge paste is used to discharge the dye in designated areas.
Heat transfer printing - colorant is applied to a special type of paper. The colorant vaporizes when it is heated and it redeposits on the fabric.
End notes for Exam 2
Carpets and Rugs Here are two excellent web sites for information about carpets and rugs.
floorspecs.com Go to the Library and then to Novalis.
Click here to go directly to the site.
Carpet and Rug Institute carpet-rug.com
Terminology
Tufting- process of punching loops of yarn
(by using a series of needles) through a backing material. Face
may be cut or uncut.
Gauge - the distance between the needles
in the crosswise direction of the carpet; expressed as a fraction.
If
there are 10 needles (loops) in an inch
of the carpet, the gauge is 1/10.
Stitch density - the number of loops
in the lengthwise direction of the carpet
The density of the pile is the most important characteristic related to durability.
Approximately 80% of the carpet made of
nylon. Other fibers are polyester, olefin (polypropylene), acrylic
and wool.
Nylon has the largest market share of carpeting followed by olefin,
polyester, acrylic, and wool.
PILE HEIGHT
Pile height means the thickness of the pile above the primary backing.
PILE WEIGHT
Pile weight is the mass of the material used to form the pile of the
wear surface.
Weights are different from one carpet to another because weight results from 4 factors – yarn count, height, gauge and stitch rate. These factors themselves relate to pile structure, appearance, comfort and the use to which the carpet is to be put.
Luxury carpets with a high, very dense cut pile use more yarn than low
pile height, loop carpets with medium gauge and stitch rates.
Total weight: the mass of material in the pile including
the part within the backing.
Face or pile weight weight: the mass of material located above
the primary backing, and which can be measured by shearing.
The weight within the backing is of interest as it affects tuft bind.
However, the only meaningful value is the pile weight weight, since
this makes up the wearing surface.
It should also be remembered that, in order to make up for poor abrasion / crush resistance, some fibers require more weight than others. This additional weight is merely a compensation factor and does not give superior carpet quality. Care should thus be taken when comparing the weights of carpets made from different fibers.
GAUGE & STITCH RATE
Pile stitch rate is measured in two ways: across the width and along
the length of the carpet.
Across the width
On tufting machines the space between the needles is defined by precise standards. The space between needles is given in fractions of an inch (1/10 means there are 10 stitches across the width of the carpet. This is called the GAUGE.
If the gauge is known, the number of needles per metro can be calculated
using the following formula:
Each needle inserts a tuft which corresponds to one stitch.
Changing the gauge allows the number of tufts to be varied to produce highly differing structures, from the finest to the coarsest, in varying densities, depending on the appearance and the quality required.
Along the length
Tufts along the length are expressed as the number of stitches. Stitches are determined by the rate at which the backing, in which the rows of tufts are inserted, is fed through the tufting machine.
Generally, stitch rates should be the same longitudinally as laterally.
Pile density stems from the number of tufts per and is calculated
by multiplying the number of rows (gauge) by the stitch rate. Whilst the
gauge is normally given, the number of stitches is frequently not supplied
although it is an important item of information.
Finishes are applied to greige goods (materials taken directly off
the loom or knitting machine) before they can be used by the consumer.
Finishes enhance the aesthetics, the hand, the texture and/or the
performance of the textile material.
Finishes may be:
Mechanical/Thermal (sometimes heat is used if the fiber content
of the material contains thermoplastic fibers).
Chemical
Finishes are classified by durability:
Permanent - will last the life of the product
Durable - will last for a specified time or numbe of cleanings
Semi-durable/renewable - the finish may last a short time but can
be renewed (such as Scotchgard)
Temporary - lasts only until the product is cleaned
Finishes used in fabric preparation:
1. Singeing - loose fibers are removed by passing under a
gas flame
2. Desizing - sizing or starch used during process is removed
by washing or enzymes
3. Scouring - used on natural fibers to remove materials left
from field or animal
4. bleaching - any color is removed to make fabric white for
dyeing
5. Mercerization - sometimes used on cotton to increase
luster and strength. Cotton is immersed in solium hydoroxide causing
fibers to swell. Fibers have a more round cross section
Finishes that affect appearance, hand, and/or texture:
1. stiffening - starches are added to give body
2. Parchmentizing - cottons are made permanently stiff by
using acid #106
3. Weighting - silks are often weighted (see earlier notes
on silk) to give body
4. Softening - reduce harsh hand on fabrics
5. Calendering - fabrics are passd through rollers under high
pressure to smooth the fabric
6. -glazing - a type of calendering using a friction
calender the produces a glazed or polished surface. Starch or resin
is added . The most common glazed fabric is CHINTZ.
#104
7. embossing - designs are produced by pressing
a pattern onto the fabric; it is permanent if heated rollers are used on
thermoplastic fibers. #28,105
8. moire - fabric has a watered or wood grain
appearance by difference in light reflection.. Sometimes done by
etching pattern or placing two pieces of fabric at angles off grain and
pressing through calender rollers.#28
9. beetling - fabric is pounded with hammers
to flatter the yarns and make them smooth.#1
10. napping - fibers are raised on surface of
low-twist spun yarns by sandpaper or other rough surface.#111
11. brushing - fibers are raised on surface of
spun yarns by use of machine with small teeth
12. shearing - rotating blades cut off top of
pile#108
13. flocking - short fibers are "glued"
to surface of fabrics by adhesive material
14. burn-out - chemicals are used in blended fabrics
to dissolve one part of the material and leave other fiber intact#108
15. plisse - puckered effect is achieved by imprinting
with chemicals that cause fabric to shrink in some areas and not in othe
areas#109
16. enzyme - enzymes are used to make fabric
soft
Functional Finishes
Fire and Flammability
Flame resistance – the property of a material whereby flaming combustion
is prevented, terminated or inhibited following application of a
source of ignition.
Fire and Flammability
The role of textile materials as the source and/or prevention of
damage by fire to a person and/or a structure
Fire Triangle As defined by the National Fire
Protection Association
In order for there to be a fire, three elements must be present:
Oxygen (always present in a normal environment)
Fuel
Heat (materials have a combustion temperature that it must reach
before it will burn)
Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI)- amount of oxygen required for a material
to burn in air
The normal environment contains 18 - 21% oxygen.
A material must have an LOI of less than 21 to burn in air.
Cellulosics have an LOI of approximately 18, therefore, they will
burn easily.
Manufactured fibers and wool have an LOI above 21; therefore, they
self-extinguish and do not burn in air.
Clothing
All clothing must meet basic flammability requirements as determined
by a standard test method
In 1972 children’s sleepwear was specifically regulated (sizes 0-6x).
In 1975 the act was expanded to include sizes 7-14.
Flammable Fabrics Act
Passed in 1953
Banned the use and sale of highly flammable materials for clothing
Amended in 1967
Included carpets, draperies, bedding and upholstery
Textiles and Structure Fires
Textile products as the initial fuel (in order of highest number)
1. Mattresses/bedding
2. Upholstered furniture
3.Clothing
4. Curtains/drapes
5. Carpets/rugs
Textile fibers as the initial fuel (in order of highest number)
1. Cellulosics
2. Manufactured fibers
3. Wool
4. Fur/silk
Clothing
All clothing must meet basic flammability requirements as determined
by a standard test method
In 1972 children’s sleepwear was specifically regulated (sizes 0-6x).
In 1975 the act was expanded to include sizes 7-14.
In 1999-2000, the act was amended to exclude snug-fitting children's
sleepwear.
Structural Fires
A large number of textile-related structural fires
are caused by careless use of cigarettes.
The National Fire Protection Association
publishes the Life Safety Codes which list requirements for
materials in areas of public assembly or
residence.
The codes and standards for materials used
in residential structures are much less stringent than for
commercial/public structures.
Smoke and gas rather than the actual flame
are usually the cause of death for victims of a fire.
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a deadly gas that
is a by-product of combustion. When CO enters the blood
stream the person becomes disoriented and
unable to escape.
Smoke and gas rise and fill the highest
area first; as the higher areas such as ceilings become filled with
smoke and gas, the smoke and gas move down
until the area is completely filled.
The temperature rises rapidly; when the
temperature is high enough for all materials in the room to ignite,
flashover occurs.
Fire burns vertically before it burns horizontally and therefore travels up walls, curtains, etc. quickly.
See other notes under Course Documents.
Waterproof – no water can penetrate the fabric
Accomplished by coating fabric or using microscopic holes that allow
water vapor to go through but not water drops
Gore-Tex is one example www.gore.com
Click here to read more about Gore-Tex
Soil and Stain REPELLENT
Topical finishes that resist penetration by water and oil-based
stains, food, dirt
Two examples are Scotchgard and Zepel
Soil RELEASE Finishes
Developed for hydrophobic fibers that absorb and hold soil, particularly
oil-based stains
Finishes make the fiber more hydrophilic so the water and detergent
can get into the fabric (fibers) and release the soil/stain
Anti-static Finishes
Conditions for static electric charge build-up are cool, dry environment
Manufactured fibers build up static electric charges because
they are hydrophobic and do not allow conduction of electrical charges
Healthy adult human body can tolerate about 5000 volts (5kV)of
electrical charges
In some areas, that is too much for safety
In sensitive areas where there might be life-sustaining equipment
or other electronics, the maximum allowable is 3500 v (3.5kV)
In areas where there would life-threatening situations the maximum
allowable is 2500 v
Anti-static finishes
Anti-static finishes work by making the material a better conductor
of electrical charges
This often means the material must become more absorbent
Anti-bacterial/Anti-microbial
Inhibit the growth of bacteria on materials
Often used in health care products, hotel/restaurant industry, home
furnishings, athletic products
Anti mildew/anti-rot
Mold, mildew and fungus will grow on some textile materials when
they are in a damp environment.
Cellulosic fibers may be damaged beyond repair
Other fibers are often stained
Sun Protective Finishes
The incidence of skin cancer and melanoma is increasing at an alarming
rate worldwide – from 200,000 new cases in 1980 to 1,000,000 new cases
in 1997
The sun emits UVA and UVB rays which are harmful to the skin, regardless
of skin color
People who suffer sunburns and extended exposure to the sun’s rays
often develop skin cancer
Sun Protection - best fabric choices
Fibers – Research has shown that manufactured fibers such as polyester
provide the most sun protection
Fabrics – Research has also shown that fabrics with a tight construction
(woven rather than knit) and a color, rather than white, provide the most
sun protection
Sun Protective Finishes
If a fabric is sold with a rating for sun protection, Sun Protection
Factor (SPF), it is regulated under the Consumer Product Safety Commission
Many companies are now selling products with a rating; some are
made by using fabric and yarn structures that provide more protection;
some use UV absorbers
.
Chart on page 30 - know the categories of fibers for each of the fibers.
Textile labeling laws.
Be able to distinguish between
a fiber, fabric construction, and fiber tradename.
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